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Woodland scenics plaster cloth12/19/2023 ![]() ![]() The only issue now is when I add the hydrocal afterwards (it bubbles in areas). Let me try and see if I can be more detailed now as I have read the responses.Īs long as I have scuffed up the foam the plastercloth will stick fine. My question is: What am I doing wrong? Any tips to help correct this issue?Īny help would greatly be appreciated. It seems that everytime I introduce moisture into the plastercloth I release the bond to the foam and get bubbles. And that is the layout style I am trying to go for. I have read several people having a great layout with plaster cloth over foam. Well lets just start the bubbling off of the foam all over again. So I moved on to covering the plastercloth with hydrocal. This time running some sandpaper over the foam to rough it up and tried again. Within a hour I had bubbles from the plaster cloth lifting from the foam. Glued foam to my base and then went over it with plaster cloth (I am using Woodland Scenics and also Activa Rigid Wrap. I have my base with blue foam (bought from local hardware store). I have been following advice that I have read from researching. Durabond will dry hard within an hour even to a thickness of inches and ends up somewhat water resistant.First to start off, I am completely new to model railroading. Some like joint compound, I won't use it as it is so water soluable and will crack if applied too thick. The Durabond gives you a decent amount of working time. The type/ amount of filler will change the overall texture. Spanning large "unsupported" (no foam, ply etc"), screening or cardboard lattice, I like to use plaster cloth and added layers of Unical for a thicker "hardshell" Ground Goop of Durabond 90 with various fillers of sawdust, cellulose, Perlite colored w/ corresponding powdered dyes make for a great controlable base. and then all the combinations that many have found suits they're needs. Some like plaster cloth or Hydrocal soaked paper towel, Some will just use Sculpamold over a shaped foam base, Then there's veneering plasters (similar to POP) Unical etc. All sorts of plaster (gypsom) products mixed w/ various fillers for ground coverings. Sculptamold isn't as permeable as plaster, so sanding it doesn't have the adverse affect on staining that sanding plaster does.Īnd to complicate this even further, There's hundreds of recepies for "Ground Goop". As mentioned above, it can be smoothed with a wet finger before it's fully cured, and it can be sanded smooth when cured. The lumpiness someone mentioned can be controlled by thorough mixing with sufficient water (I like mine to be the approximate texture of oatmeal when I start to apply it). I've never had much luck making castings from it, but on the other hand I can use a palette knife to carve it into rock faces as well as man-made features like concrete platforms, loading docks, and retaining walls (covered with styrene or wall card for finished detail). Sculptamold is a mixture of plaster of paris (basically hydrocal), shredded newsprint, and white glue. I like hydrocal, and use it over plaster cloth for scenery and for casting rock molds. The problem is that both absorb water over time and become crumbly, so make sure if you buy a big bag that you can reseal it somehow. The generics are cheaper and available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. Gypsolite is the generic term for what they call "Molding Plaster". Hydrocal is the generic name for the stuff sold by Woodland Scenics as "Casting Plaster". I agree that it's a hobby with a lot of options. The bridge piers and abutments were cast with Durabond, too. The "water" here, on a plywood riverbed, is only 1/8" thick but hasn't cracked or been damaged by cameras place atop it. and an area with ground cover applied:ĭurabond is tough even when applied in a thin coat. ![]() Here's an area that's been coloured but not otherwise scenicked except alongside the tracks: It's easier to apply than paint straight from the can, goes farther, and even soaks in somewhat. I coloured it with flat interior latex house paint, thinned about 50/50 with water. It can be mixed in various degrees of stiffness and, once hardened, is very strong. I use a wide putty knife to apply it over aluminum screen, then use a 2" brush, dipped frequently in water, to smooth out the knife marks. It's available in home improvement stores in 5 or 10lb. There are other varieties with faster setting times, too. Instead, I use Durabond 90, a patching plaster which sets in approximately 90 minutes. The dental plaster is nice for casting walls and bridge piers and abutments, but too expensive for general landforms. ![]() I've used Plaster of Paris, Hydrocal, and dental plaster, but all harden too quickly for my tastes. ![]()
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